Photograms
Photograms are contact prints. The photos are made without using a camera, they are caused by the reaction of light on a photosensitive surface.
Here is a step by step guide on how to make photograms.
1) Firstly we had to set up our enlargers. To do this we had to adjust the height of the enlarger head, using the dial located at the back of the enlarger. Once that was done that we had to ensure the light covered the printing area. To test this you have to press the furthest right button on the timer. After that you have to set all filters to 0, the aperture to f/8 and the timer to 3, to set the timer you just use the two top buttons on the timer.
2)With the enlarger now successfully set up you can go collect your test strip of photographic paper. Make sure you set it emulsion side up (shiny side.) Then you carefully arrange your composition on top of the paper. Then using a piece of cardboard you cover one corner of the composition before turning on the enlarger for the 3 second count down. You have to repeat this process, each time you cover a little more of the composition until its completely covered by the card.
3) Next you take your photographic paper and place it in the developer for 2 minutes, gently agitating the chemical to ensure no stains end up on your developed photogram. After the 2 minutes are up you have to place your photo into the stop bath for 30 seconds, keep an eye on the clock. After that it then goes into the fix for 5-7 minutes. Finally after that it goes into a tray of running water for 10 minutes.
- Developer - 2 minutes This develops the photo by reacting to the chemicals so the composition can be seen.
- Stop bath - 30 This stops the developer process so you can retain your composition
- Fix - 5-7 minutes This fixes your composition to the paper so it doesn't fade over time.
- Wash - 10 minutes This washes off the excess chemicals
4) After the 10 minutes are up you can take your finished tester piece to be dried. You can tell the amount of exposer time needed for your photograms by the grey to black intervals within your test strip, each interval represents 3 seconds.
5) After you've finished your tester strip you can make a start on your proper photogram. The only difference to the procedure is the timer has to be changed depending on your exposure time. My personal time was 15 seconds, you can change this on the timer. And you only expose the paper once without any cardboard covering your composition.
Chemogram's
Chemogram's are very similar to photograms. The only difference comes from the procedure after it has been exposed to light. There are two different ways to do chemogram's ones with developer and the others with fix.
Here is a step by step guide on how to produce chemogram's
1) First draw out 3 different compositions using geometric shapes, you'll use these for your chemogram's. Then gather your material to produce your composition.
2) Like with photograms use the same process as step 1 and 2 except you only expose your composition once, as it states in step 5 of photograms. Exposure time is only 3 seconds.
3) After you've exposed your composition gently take off the objects on the photographic paper.
4) For a developer based photogram, you need to get a paintbrush and dip it into the developer (make sure not to have the paintbrush too heavily) Then you can really do whatever you want with it. You can splatter the developer covered paintbrush onto your photo or make patterns. By doing this you should eventually start to see your photo emerge wherever you've placed the developer.
5) After you've applied the developer you place it into the stop bath for 30 seconds.
6) Then it goes into the fix for a further 5-7 minutes. This ensures that only the places that you applied the developer develop.
7) After the fix you place it into the was for another 10 minutes.
8) After the 10 minutes are up, put the developed chemogram into a tray and take it to be dried.
For the fix chemogram.
1) Repeat step 2-3 as written above for the developer chemogram. I'd recommend choose a different composition this time.
2) For the fix chemogram you can either get a paintbrush or put the fix directly into a spray bottle. As with the developer chemograms you apply the fix any way you'd like, although you need to apply considerably less this time. By applying the fix first it will prevent the developer developing in the areas the fix is applied, this will create distinctive white areas.
3) After you've applied the fix you need to place the photo into the developer for 2 minutes. Remember to keep the tray constantly agitated.
4) After the fix the photo needs to go into the stop bath for 30 seconds.
5) Then it goes back into the fix for a further 5-7 minute.
6) Lastly its into the wash for 10 minutes, after this it needs to be placed into a tray and taken off to dry.
Sun Printing
Sun printing is a contact print that is made by placing objects onto light sensitive paper and exposing it to UV light. Solid objects prevent the sun from exposing the paper, anywhere the light can pass through will create a pattern or images.
Here is a step by step guide to sun printing.
1) You first have to work in a darkened room to organise your composition onto light sensitive paper. Make sure you place the objects emulsion side up (shiny side). Your composition preferably needs to be made using natural resources such as leaves, feather and twigs as it allows interesting light patterns to pass through, and its also easier to get hold of.
2) When your composition is ready place a piece of card on top of your composition to keep it in place, then cover it with a second piece to stop the paper exposing early.
3) Carry your work outside and place it on the ground, then remove protective layer of card so it can be exposed.
4) Expose the paper until you can start to see an imprint beginning to appear. Exposure time can range between 8-60 minutes depending on the strength of the UV light. The average time is usually 15-25 minutes.
5)When its finished exposing cover it back up with the protective cardboard and take it back to the darkened room. Then remove the objects from the paper and give it a gentle wash if dirty.
6) Then place it in the fix for 5-7 minutes, this will stop the image exposing and instead make it permanent on the paper.
7) Place it in the wash for 10 minutes, then take it out to be dried.
Health & Safety
- Do not place your hands in the chemical trays ( gloves are provided if required)
- Wash hands with warm water and soap if the chemicals are splashed
- No wet trays or tongs in enlarger trays
- Always use a tray when carrying prints
- Clean up any spillage
- Dry hands before operating enlargers
- Report any faults
Materials
- photographic paper
- Photographic chemicals
- Card
- Leaves
- Feathers
- Thread
- Wire
- Tissue paper
- Anything you find outside that can be used for your composition.
